Repair & maintenance guides
Plain-English, step by step, written for owners. Pick your engine to see the guides that apply to it.
366 of 509 guides · page 10 of 16

How to Sea Trial Your Boat After Maintenance or Repair
A step-by-step test run after service work: dock checks first (leaks, fluids, steering, kill switch), then a gradual climb through the RPM range while you watch temperature and pressure, a wide-open-throttle check against your engine's spec, shifting and trim tests, and a bilge check afterward. Catch a loose clamp or a missed step at the dock, not miles out.

How to Size a House Battery Bank: Load List, Usable Capacity and Charging
Work out how many amp-hours your boat really uses in a day, how much of a battery's rated capacity you can actually use with lead-acid, AGM or lithium, how much reserve to add, and how your charging sources change the answer, so you buy the right house bank the first time.

How to Size, Rig and Inspect Dock Lines and Fenders
Pick the right dock line diameter and fender size for your boat, set up bow, stern and spring lines in a slip, add chafe gear, inspect for wear and UV damage, and double everything up before a storm.

How to Spot and Prevent Corrosion on an Aluminum Boat
Aluminum hulls and pontoon tubes are tough, but they lose almost every fight with other metals. Learn the warning signs of galvanic and stray current corrosion, keep copper and loose metal away from the hull, choose the right anodes, touch up paint with the proper primer and know when a repair needs a welder.

How to Tell if Your Boat's Flotation Foam Is Waterlogged
Learn the signs that the foam under the floor or seats of a small boat has soaked up water, how to check without tearing the boat apart, what the Coast Guard flotation rules mean for you, and why replacing foam is usually a big job for a pro.

How to Test and Clean Your Bilge Pump and Float Switch
Make sure your bilge pump actually moves water overboard, both on the manual switch and automatically through the float switch. A working bilge pump is one of the most important safety systems on any boat that stays in the water.

How to Test and Fix Your Boat's Navigation Lights
Learn which navigation lights your boat must show and when, then test them and fix the usual culprits such as corroded sockets, loose pole-light plugs and blown bulbs. Working lights are legally required at night and in poor visibility and are how other boats see which way you are heading.

How to Test and Replace the Engine Thermostat
Find, test and replace the thermostat that controls your engine's operating temperature. A stuck thermostat can make an engine overheat or run too cold. On most outboards and many sterndrives it is a one-hour job with basic tools.

How to Touch Up Paint and Corrosion on an Outboard or Sterndrive
Bare aluminum on a lower unit or sterndrive corrodes fast, especially in salt water. Learn how to find the cause, clean off corrosion, prime and repaint with the right products, and what must never be painted, such as anodes and sensors.

How to Troubleshoot Dash Gauges, a Dead Tachometer or a Wrong Fuel Gauge
Work through dead or wrong dash gauges from the cheapest check to the most involved: fuses and breakers, power and ground, the gauge-versus-sender test, the tachometer's pulse setting and the extra checks for digital network gauges. Most gauge problems turn out to be a bad connection, not a bad gauge.

How to Upgrade Your Boat's Lighting to LED (and Keep Your Nav Lights Legal)
Switch cabin, cockpit and courtesy lights to LED to cut battery drain and bulb changes, choose navigation lights that are actually USCG-certified (not just LED bulbs), check voltage range and dimmers, seal every connection, and run the Coast Guard's simple VHF test to make sure the new lights aren't deafening your radio or AIS.

How to Use a 1-2-Both Battery Switch and Run Two Batteries
Learn what the 1, 2, Both and Off positions really do, a simple routine that keeps one battery ready to start the engine, how to check that both batteries are charging, and when an automatic charging relay makes life easier. Rewiring high-current cables is a job for a marine electrician.

How to Use a Pump-Out Station: Finding One, Hooking Up and Rinsing the Tank
Find a pump-out near you with state maps and free apps, hook up to the deck fitting without spills, rinse the holding tank, leave the station clean for the next boat and know the rules for no-discharge zones and mobile pump-out boats.

How to Use an Oil Extractor Pump for Boat Oil Changes
Change engine oil cleanly through the dipstick tube with a manual or electric extractor: know which engines it suits, warm the oil first, get as much out as you can, then refill to the dipstick, recycle the old oil and clean the pump so it's ready next time.

How to Winterize (and Recommission) Your Boat's Freshwater System
Protect the tank, pump, water heater, faucets and showers from freeze damage with non-toxic antifreeze, then flush and sanitize everything in the spring so the water is clean again. A cracked pump or split fitting is a common, avoidable winter repair bill.

How to Winterize a Pontoon Boat: Engine, Tubes, Furniture, Cover and Storage
Put a pontoon away for winter the way pontoon builders describe it, covering the outboard, the tubes and their drain plugs, furniture, vinyl and flooring, rodents, a cover that won't collapse under snow, and trailer or lift storage. Engine and water jobs link to the detailed BoatMend guides.

How to Winterize an Outboard Engine
Protect your outboard from freeze damage, stale fuel and internal corrosion over the off-season. Most owners can do it in an afternoon with basic tools, compared with a shop bill that often runs several hundred dollars.

How to Wire a 12, 24 or 36-Volt Trolling Motor and Charge Its Batteries
Set up the battery bank for your electric trolling motor the right way: matched deep-cycle batteries in series or parallel, a circuit breaker sized from the motor maker's chart, a proper plug, and a multi-bank charger that keeps every battery healthy. High-current wiring that runs long distances or ties into other systems is a job for a marine electrician.

How to Wire a Bilge Pump Correctly (Automatic Float, Panel Switch and Fuse)
Wire your bilge pump so the automatic float works even with the battery switch off, the helm switch gives you a manual override, and every circuit has the right fuse, wire size and connections kept above the bilge water. A pump that is wired wrong can leave the boat unprotected exactly when nobody is aboard.

How to Wire a Marine Stereo, Speakers and Amplifier Safely
Install or fix a boat stereo the way that keeps it working and keeps your battery alive: marine-rated gear, a fused feed from the panel, a solid ground, a plan for the always-on memory wire, UV-proof speakers, and an amplifier fused right at the battery. Plus how to stop the stereo from messing with your VHF and compass.

How Water Gets Into Boat Fuel (and How to Stop It)
Water in the fuel is one of the top causes of rough running and dead engines, and it almost always has an entry point you can find. Work from the jar test through the fill cap O-ring, a recessed deck fill, the tank vent, the sending unit gasket and your washdown habits, and learn how much condensation really matters.

Hull Blisters (Osmosis): How to Tell Cosmetic Pimples From Serious Pox
Learn what osmotic blisters are, how to inspect a fiberglass bottom at haul-out, which blisters you can fix yourself with epoxy, what moisture meter readings can and can't tell you, and when to hire an independent surveyor.

Hull Potential Survey: Checking Corrosion Protection with a Reference Electrode
A silver/silver-chloride reference electrode and an ordinary multimeter show whether your underwater metals are really protected by their anodes, whether every fitting is bonded, and whether shore power or the slip is upsetting things. Learn how to take the readings, what under- and over-protection mean in plain terms, and when to call a marine electrician or corrosion specialist.

Hydraulic Steering: Check Fluid, Bleed Air and Fix Stiff or Loose Steering
Check the fluid in your hydraulic steering helm, bleed out the air that makes steering spongy, and track down the usual causes of stiff, loose or noisy steering. Includes notes for boats with mechanical cable steering.
Safety: BoatMend is for information only and does not replace a certified marine technician. You are responsible for your safety and your boat. Read the full disclaimer.