Repair & maintenance guides

Shipping a Boat with a Professional Transporter: Quotes, Vetting, Prep and Claims

Most boat shipments go fine, but when they don't, the owner who checked the carrier's authority and insurance, prepped the boat properly and documented everything at pickup and delivery is the one who gets paid. Here's how to hire a transporter, prepare the boat and handle damage.

Shock-Absorbing Boat Seats and Pedestals: Choosing, Installing and Adjusting

Pounding through chop hurts backs and necks, and hard wave impacts can fracture a spine, especially up front. Learn the difference between a shock-absorbing pedestal and a suspension seat base, how to mount one solidly, how to set it for the rider's weight, and the simple care that keeps it working, plus the seating and driving habits that matter just as much.

Shore Power Adapters and Y-Splitters: When a 30A or 50A Adapter Is Safe, and When It Isn't

Pigtail adapters and Y-splitters let a boat plug into a pedestal that doesn't match its inlet, but the wrong one, or the right one used carelessly, can overheat, trip the marina's ground-fault protection or start a fire. Learn the difference between 30A 125V, 50A 125V and 50A 125/250V, which adapters are reasonable, how to keep loads safe, and how to check connections for heat.

Shore Power Cord Ends: How to Judge a Cord, and When to Replace the Plug or the Whole Cord

Burned blades, a hot plug or a cracked locking ring don't always mean a brand-new cord, but sometimes they do. Learn how to inspect a shore power cord and its ends, decide between a replacement end and a new cord, what a proper sealed marine connector looks like, which parts of the job are safe for an owner and when the work belongs to an ABYC-certified electrician, plus the habits that make cord ends last.

Shore Power Inlet and Cord Upgrades: Burned Plugs, Better Connectors and Safe Adapters

Why shore power plugs and boat inlets overheat and burn, how to spot an inlet that needs replacing, what newer connector designs offer, and how to choose, size and care for cords and adapters. You inspect and buy the right cord; an ABYC-certified marine electrician replaces the inlet and its wiring.

Shore Power Safety: Cords, Inlets, Burned Plugs and Electric Shock Drowning

An owner's inspection routine for your shore power cord, plugs, boat inlet, galvanic isolator and ground-fault protection, plus the right way to plug in and the facts about Electric Shock Drowning. This guide is for looking and testing only; any electrical repair belongs to an ABYC-certified marine electrician.

Smoke and Heat Detectors on a Boat: Where They Make Sense, What to Buy and How to Test

A fire in a closed cabin, engine room or lazarette can grow for minutes before anyone notices. Learn where smoke alarms and heat detectors make sense aboard, why boats are hard on household alarms, how to power and test them, how they fit with CO alarms, and how automatic engine-room extinguishers and engine shutdown tie in.

Spiders, Wasps and Insects on Your Boat: Prevention and Safe Cleanup

Why boats attract spiders, mud daubers, wasps and swarming lake insects, how to clean webs and droppings without harming gelcoat or canvas, and how to keep nests out of the vents, telltales and fittings your boat needs to breathe.

Spring Commissioning - Getting Your Boat Ready for the Season

Wake your boat up after storage with a step-by-step check of the battery, fuel system, engine, drive and safety gear. Catching a cracked hose or dead battery in the driveway beats a tow on opening weekend, and saves a typical shop commissioning fee.

Start Isolation for Your ACR: Stop the Chartplotter and Stereo from Rebooting at Engine Start

If your plotter, radio or stereo reboots every time you turn the key even though you have two batteries and an automatic charging relay, the relay may be tying the house battery into the cranking dip. Learn how start isolation and dual-circuit battery switches keep the electronics on their own battery, how to find and test the start-only wire, and what to check after the job.

Sterndrive Power Steering Hoses and Fluid Cooler: Inspection and When to Replace

Learn to spot the early signs of a failing power steering hose or fluid cooler on a MerCruiser, Volvo Penta or similar sterndrive or inboard, from rusty crimped hose ends and red fluid in the bilge to a cooler that leaks fluid overboard or lets water into the system. Inspection is an owner job; replacement is usually for a pro.

Sterndrive Power Steering: Fluid Checks, Hard Steering and Leaks

Troubleshoot the engine-driven power steering on a MerCruiser, Volvo Penta or similar sterndrive or inboard, from the free checks (fluid, belt, cable) to the signs that the pump or actuator needs a pro. Steering that suddenly goes heavy at speed is a safety problem, not a comfort problem.

Storing a Boat on Stands and Blocks: Keel Blocking, Stand Placement and Safety Chains

Learn how a boat should sit on keel blocks and boat stands for winter or a haul-out, so you can check the yard's work, spot dangerous setups, and keep your boat from settling, distorting or falling over in wind, rain or a storm.

Strange Engine Noises - What a Knock, Tick, Rattle, Whine, Grind or Squeal Can Mean

Learn what common boat engine noises often point to, which ones mean shut down now, and the safe checks you can do yourself before describing the problem to a mechanic.

Stress and Spider Cracks in Fiberglass, Cosmetic or Structural?

Learn what causes spider, stress and hairline cracks in your boat's gelcoat, how to tell cosmetic crazing from a structural problem with a simple tap and flex check, and when a gelcoat repair is enough or a pro is needed.

Stripping Old Bottom Paint: Chemical Strippers, Blasting and Sanding

Learn when old bottom paint has to come off, how chemical strippers, soda or media blasting and sanding compare, how to protect yourself and the water from toxic dust, and why a bare hull needs primer or a barrier coat before new antifouling.

Switching to Lithium (LiFePO4) Boat Batteries: What Changes and When It's Worth It

What really changes when you swap lead-acid for lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries on a boat: the battery management system, charger settings, protecting the alternator with a DC-DC charger, not mixing chemistries, cold-weather charging, and which jobs (trolling, house, starting) suit lithium. House-bank conversions should be designed and installed by a qualified marine electrician.

Synthetic Teak Decking: Choosing, Installing and Caring for PVC Teak

PVC "teak" such as Flexiteek, PlasDECK and Permateek gives you the teak look without oiling or recaulking, but it is glued down for good and it gets hot in the sun. Learn how it compares with real teak and foam, what a pro or DIY install involves, and how to clean, repair and keep the warranty valid.

Taking Delivery of a New Boat: Dealer PDI, Paperwork, Sea Trial and First Service

What to check before you sign for a new boat: the dealer's pre-delivery inspection, the HIN and title paperwork, warranty registration, required safety gear, a systems walk-through and a real sea trial. Then break the engine in properly and book the first service so the warranty stays intact.

Taking Your Boat to Another State: Registration Reciprocity, Visitor Time Limits and Nonresident Permits

Your home-state registration lets you boat in other states, but only for a while, and some states add their own visitor permits, use-tax permits and invasive species stickers. Learn how federal reciprocity works, real examples from Texas, Florida, Washington and Oregon, and a checklist for a vacation trip or a season away. General information, not legal advice.

Teak Deck and Trim Care: Clean, Oil, Seal or Leave It Natural

Keep teak decks, rails and trim looking good without wearing them away. Choose between a natural gray look, oil, sealer or varnish, and learn how to clean teak gently so you don't destroy it with harsh cleaners or a pressure washer.

Testing Engine Coolant: Test Strips, Refractometer or Lab Analysis

Coolant can look perfect and still be worn out. Learn how to test the coolant in a closed-cooled inboard, sterndrive, diesel or generator with test strips, a refractometer or a mail-in lab kit, what each result tells you, and when the answer is a coolant change or a call to a mechanic.

Testing Your VHF Antenna and Coax: Radio Checks, SWR, Connectors and Mounts

Most weak or scratchy VHF radios have nothing wrong with the radio. Learn how to test the whole antenna system, from a proper radio check and a DSC test call to a multimeter and SWR meter, how to find corroded connectors and wet coax, and when to replace the cable, antenna or mount.

The Pre-Departure Safety Briefing: What to Tell Every Passenger (with a Printable Checklist)

A five-minute talk before you leave the dock turns guests into a crew that can help in an emergency. Cover life jackets, the engine cut-off switch, the fire extinguisher, how to call for help on the VHF, what to do if someone falls overboard, staying seated, seasickness and carbon monoxide near the stern, then use the printable checklist every trip.