How to Link a Kicker Motor to Your Main Engine With a Tie Bar

With both motors down and straight, measure between the main engine's steering (cylinder or cable end) and the kicker's steering arm or tiller bracket. Then turn the wheel slowly lock to lock and watch the gap. Mercury says the motors must be far enough apart that neither touches the other in a full turn. Note anything in the path a bar would take: trim rams, hoses, wiring, the jackplate, the kicker bracket.

Most kits attach to the main engine with a drive bracket on the hydraulic cylinder or steering rod, and to the kicker with a ball stud on its steering arm or a clamp on the tiller. Follow the kit's instructions exactly for which bolts to use; some reuse factory bolts with threadlocker. Never drill the main engine's steering cylinder or modify steering parts.

Fit the drive bracket or link adapter to the main engine's steering as the kit describes. Tighten as instructed (the kit gives the method or torque). Then turn the wheel lock to lock with only the bracket fitted and confirm it doesn't hit anything.

Attach the ball stud or clamp to the kicker's steering arm or tiller bracket. On a tiller kicker, set the steering friction loose enough that the bar can turn the motor without fighting it. Mercury's tiller ProKickers have a steering friction lever for holding the motor straight when trolling by hand; with a tie bar, that friction should not be locked.

Center the helm. Point both motors straight ahead (sight down each motor's centerline to the bow, or measure from each lower unit to a fixed point on the transom). Set the bar length so it drops onto both ends without pushing or pulling either motor. On an adjustable bar, set the length and lock the jam nuts. On a cut-to-length rod, measure twice, cut once and file off burrs. The goal is that both motors turn together and stay parallel through the turn.

Most kits use a quick-release ball joint or pin at one end so you can disconnect in seconds. Make sure it snaps fully home and its lock or clip engages. This is your safety valve: if the kicker ever jams, disconnecting it frees the main steering.

With a helper turning the wheel slowly, watch the bar through the full range:

• Both engines down, lock to lock
• Main engine tilted up, kicker down, lock to lock
• Kicker raised on its bracket or tilted up, main down, lock to lock
• Both tilted up

Panther's FAQ notes that if the rod hits the motor, hoses or bracket, the rod can be bent to clear the interference, and an extension coupling can move the ball stud out. The bar must never bind, pull tight, rub a hose or hit the boat. If it does in any position, fix it before you use it.

If you're steering from the helm, you'll also need to shift and throttle the kicker from there. Mercury says remote-steered kickers need a dedicated remote control. Rigging remote controls, cables and electric start is a dealer-level job on many motors. If you keep the tiller for shift and throttle, make sure you can reach it safely.

• Trolling: main engine off and tilted as the kit and engine makers allow, kicker down and running, steer from the helm. Musky pro Jim Saric, interviewed by Mercury, trims his big outboard up only partway (about 20 to 30 degrees) so its lower unit stays in the water and works like a rudder, and uses a separate remote throttle for the kicker to power in and out of turns. If you try this, check first that your tie bar clears at that trim angle (step 7).
• Running on the main engine: kicker tilted up and locked. Many owners disconnect the tie bar whenever the kicker isn't in use. Check your kit's instructions on whether the bar may stay connected with the kicker tilted up; if they don't say it's fine, disconnect it.
• Never run both engines in gear at planing speed while they're linked, and never use the kicker's high speed with the bar attached unless the kit maker says it's allowed.

In open water, idle the kicker and turn the wheel both ways. The boat should answer smoothly with no lag, clunk or stiff spots. Steering from the helm at trolling speed can feel slow; small, early wheel inputs work best. Disconnect the quick-release and confirm the main steering is free.

• Rinse the bar, ball joints and quick-release with fresh water after salt water use. Spring-loaded quick-release clips can corrode and stick.
• Grease ball joints as the kit maker recommends, and check them for play.
• Don't forget the main engine's own steering parts that the bar hooks onto. Mercury's quick tip on steering linkages says a little grease and light oil on the steering components and transom assembly keeps steering smooth; your owner's manual shows the exact grease points and intervals (see also the outboard grease points guide).
• Check bracket bolts and jam nuts for tightness every season.
• Look at the bar for bends or cracks after any hard knock. Replace it rather than straightening a damaged bar.