How to Clean and Care for Clear Vinyl (Isinglass) and Polycarbonate Enclosure Panels

Flood the panels with plenty of fresh water from top to bottom using a soft shower spray. Do not blast them with a sharp jet or a pressure washer; Passagemaker warns that a hard stream drives salt and grit across the surface and scratches it. Never wipe a dry, dusty or salty panel.

• Sunscreen: handprints can be impossible to remove. Wash or wipe hands before touching the panels.
• Insect repellent with DEET: Practical Sailor reports it can melt vinyl. Spray well away from the enclosure.
• Household cleaners: no ammonia glass cleaner, no Windex, no alcohol-based cleaners, no Rain-X. Strataglass's current care page also rules out Pledge, Plexus, Simple Green and Orpine, any car wax or "wash and wax" product, and scratch removers or polishes made for commercial-grade vinyl or plastic; using them voids its warranty.
• Spills: if sunscreen, bug spray or another chemical lands on the panel, clean it off right away with the cleaner your vinyl maker approves. Keep a bottle aboard for exactly this.
• Canvas waterproofing sprays: BoatUS warns that fabric treatments like 303 Fabric Guard can damage clear vinyl. Cover the windows when treating canvas and wipe off any overspray at once.

Use a separate bucket and mitt that are only for the clear panels so no grit from the deck gets on them. Wash with a mild soap (Sailrite suggests a little dish soap for press-polished vinyl; Strataglass owners should use IMAR Yacht Soap). Work top to bottom with light pressure and rinse well.

Blot dry with a clean chamois, soft microfiber, or a soft squeegee made for clear vinyl, or let it air dry. Never use paper towels: Practical Sailor notes that grit left in paper towels from the papermaking process is harder than vinyl and leaves fine scratches. Change to a fresh cloth often, and turn it frequently.

After washing, apply the cleaner/protectant or polish your vinyl maker approves, with a soft cotton cloth in small circles, then buff. These products put back the protective film that sun and washing wear away. Practical Sailor found that thicker cream polishes tend to last longer than sprays. How often depends on sun and salt; many makers suggest every month or two (follow your product label).

White spots that stay after washing are often hard-water or calcium deposits. Practical Sailor suggests a 10 percent white vinegar and water solution, rinsed off well, followed by protectant. Check your vinyl maker's instructions before trying anything stronger. For polycarbonate, BoatUS advises plain soap and water and no alkaline cleaners.

• Soft clear vinyl: fine haze can sometimes be improved with the maker's protective polish applied firmly on a flat, towel-covered surface. Practical Sailor warns that vinyl "restoration" kits may compromise the protective coating. Deep scratches, yellowing or cloudiness that will not polish out mean the panel is due for replacement by a canvas shop.
• Rigid acrylic panels: light scratches can be polished with a fine plastic scratch remover, then waxed with a plastic-safe wax (Passagemaker uses Novus 2 for fine scratches and Novus 3 for heavier ones).
• Coated polycarbonate: do not polish it unless it is already dull or yellow; BoatUS says polishing can remove the factory coating that protects it.

Only roll vinyl panels when they and your hands are clean and dry; salt rolled up inside acts like sandpaper. Roll them loosely with a soft cloth between the layers so the vinyl does not touch itself, and never fold or crease them. Do not leave panels rolled up for days at a time in summer: Passagemaker notes moisture trapped in the roll can cloud the vinyl and grow mildew. Rigid panels never roll; store them flat.

New panels are extra soft. Strataglass says brand-new clear vinyl marks easily, so keep new panels installed and fastened to the boat as much as possible while they stabilize. If you must take them off and stack them, put a soft sheet between each panel so they do not leave impressions on each other. When the boat is not in use, it recommends closing and fastening the panels rather than leaving them rolled.

Cold vinyl gets stiff and brittle. Practical Sailor cracked a test panel cleaning it at about 45°F and advises not cleaning, folding or rolling clear vinyl below about 55°F (another of its articles uses 60°F as the rule of thumb, "when hats and gloves come off"). Wait for the sun to warm the panels and burn off frost or dew before you open them. Thick and older panels are the most fragile.

• Flush zippers on both sides with fresh water when you rinse the enclosure, so salt does not build up in the teeth.
• Open and close each zipper every few weeks, even the ones you never use, so salt and dirt do not set hard.
• Use a lubricant made for marine zippers, and keep it off the clear panels (some lubricants contain silicone or solvents that vinyl makers warn against).
• Never force a stuck zipper; soak it with fresh water first.
• Check snaps and twist fasteners; a light coat of the same lubricant keeps them working.

BoatUS points out that the discolored stripe where vinyl touches a metal frame is often a heat scorch from the hot metal. Keep vinyl off bare frames where you can. If you cover the enclosure, use a cover that does not flap against the windows; Practical Sailor has seen abrasion from covers rubbing in the wind. Keeping panels out of direct sun when the boat is not in use adds years to their life.

For off-season storage, wash, dry and treat the panels first. Store vinyl flat or loosely rolled with soft cloth between layers, in a dry place out of the sun, where it will not be crushed or bent. An old cotton sheet wrapped around the panels keeps them from rubbing on each other. Store rigid panels flat with a soft layer between them.